Exploring Local Spirits from Goa, Kerala & Northeast India: A Regional Liquor Journey

India is a diverse tapestry of identities. From their many languages, cuisines, music, and rituals, it is clear that each state is wonderfully distinct from each other—and throughout these regions there is a love for alcohol. While the global discourse about alcohol often centers on Scotch Whisky, French wines, or sake from Japan, India has its own variety of local spirits that have flourished over centuries, all influenced by geography, agriculture, and culture. 

While Europe has a long history of wine production and East Asia has defined its traditions around rice-based alcoholic beverages (sake and soju), India has a localized, community-based drinking tradition. The country is home to its own beloved local liquor from every corner of the map, and these local drinks are made from a variety of food sources such as fruits, grains, roots, palm sap, and even flowers. These drinks are also vehicles of culture instead of just for drinking; they signify community, identity, ritual, and hospitality. 

We will visit two featured regions with some of the richest traditions for producing indigenous liquor: Goa, Kerala, and Northeast India. These landscapes produce liquors that are more than servings of alcohol; they produce heritage, craftsmanship, and pride.

Goa: The Spirit of the Coast

Most people think of Goa as golden beaches, nightlife, and seafood. Yet Goa also has one of India's unique drinking cultures, a legacy of centuries of Portuguese influence fused with local ingenuity.

1. Feni – Goa’s Cultural Crown Jewel

No discussion of Goan liquor can begin without Feni, the state’s signature spirit and one of only a few Indian liquors with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag.

Feni exists in two varieties:

• Cashew Feni – Introduced by the Portuguese in the 16th century, cashews became deeply entwined with Goan agriculture and cuisine. The cashew apple, often discarded elsewhere, found new purpose here. Its juice is fermented and distilled to create cashew feni—a pungent, earthy spirit with fruity, nutty undertones.
  
  
• Coconut Feni – Distilled from fermented toddy (coconut palm sap), this variation reflects Goa’s tropical abundance. It’s lighter and more aromatic, with a profile that pairs well with refreshing mixers.
  
  

Feni isn’t a drink that conceals itself – it’s proud, full-bodied and aromatic. Most first-time drinkers find it challenging, but once you acquire a taste for it, the flavor becomes the mark of authenticity. Locals tend to drink it neat, with lime soda, and in bravely creative cocktails.

Pairing Tip: Cashew feni complements Goan seafood classics like prawn balchao or fish curry rice. Coconut feni, meanwhile, shines in long, refreshing drinks with ginger ale, soda, or coconut water.

2. Urrak – Feni’s Younger Sibling

While feni is the mature spirit of Goa, Urrak is its light-hearted, playful version. Urrak is distilled only once, resulting in a lighter, fresher spirit, and it is available only during the summer cashew harvest period, from March to May. Its short shelf life and limited availability make it a delightful seasonal ritual. The locals drink it with soda, salt, and heaps of chili flakes—a drink made for warm Goan evenings.

3. Goa’s Craft Revival

Goa has also emerged as the beating heart of India's modern craft spirits movement. Young distillers are playing around with gins made with local botanicals like Kokum, cashew leaves, and spices, and rums that are reflective of Goa's sugar cane past- as they do this, they are balancing tradition with new global trends, and making sure Goa stays at the forefront of India's fast-changing landscape for alcohol.

Kerala: The Land of Toddy and Spice

If Goa is shaped by cashews and the coast, Kerala draws its drinking traditions from coconut palms, spice trade legacies, and a culture that celebrates community meals. Here, alcohol has always been intertwined with food and social life.

1. Toddy (Kallu) – The Everyday Spirit

Toddy, or kallu, is Kerala’s quintessential local drink. Tapped fresh from coconut or palm trees, toddy is collected in earthen pots by skilled tappers who scale towering palms with astonishing ease.

• Sweet Toddy – Collected in the morning, it is mildly alcoholic and retains a natural sweetness.
  
  
• Sour Toddy – Left to ferment longer, it develops a stronger tang and higher alcohol content.
  

Toddy shops ("kallu shaap") are an essential part of Kerala's culture. They feature ample supplies of toddy with various spicy dishes such as karimeen pollichathu (pearl spot fish cooked in a banana leaf), beef ularthiyathu (dry-fried beef) and kappa meen curry (tapioca with fish curry). Drinking tody in Kerala is as much about food and companionship as it is about drink.

2. Arrack – Once Popular, Now Rare

For several centuries, Kerala also produced Arrack a distillate distilled from sugarcane or the sap from palm. However regulations and bans in the late twentieth century eliminated it from the market. Today, it is only produced in artisanal corners and mostly talked about in fading years; with the older generations thinking about Arrack's cultural importance.

3. Spice-Infused Innovations

The spice history of Kerala is remarkable — it has been the global center of cardamom, pepper and cloves, cinnamon, etc., for centuries. No wonder today's distillers are embracing that legacy by working with gins, liqueurs and rums, which are infused with spices from Kerala. The products are meant to appeal to the adventurous drinker and set Kerala apart as a place for craft spirits that forward flavor.

Pairing Tip: Fresh toddy with kappa and fish curry captures the true essence of Kerala’s culinary and drinking culture.

Northeast India: The Land of Indigenous Brews

While Goa and Kerala share stories of coasts, the Northeast India tells a completely different story than the rest of India with its mountains, forests and rich tribal traditions—brewing and distilling are not mere food activities, they are also festivals and rituals relevant to community life.

1. Apong (Assam & Arunachal Pradesh)

Apong is a traditional rice beer originating from the Adi and Mishing tribes. It is made from starter cakes of herbs (called epi/opo). Apong has noticeable smoky, earthy notes, moderate alcohol, and fresh taste. Apong is traditionally brewed in the home, served during harvest festivals, and shared and consumed at weddings or community gatherings.

2. Zutho (Nagaland)

Zutho is the drink of choice among the Angami Naga. It is thick, fruity, and a little tart, in keeping with the agricultural lifestyle of Nagaland. Like many rice beers, zuthois more than just a drink. It is a part of festivals and a part of shared meals.

3. Kyat (Meghalaya)

The Khasi and Jaintia people in Meghalaya prepared Kyat, a rice beer for social gatherings and rituals. Kyat is praised for its rustic, homemade quality that reflects community spirit.

4. Judima (Dimasa Tribe, Assam)

Judima, possibly the most recognized of all liquors from Northeastern India has a GI tag and it is a product of pride for the Dimasa people. Judima is brewed using rice and natural herbs, with a slight sweetness, and is often likened to mead. While the tasting of Judima is an event in itself, given its ceremonial use, Judima is as much of a cultural symbol as it is an alcoholic beverage.

5. Sekmai Yu (Manipur)

From Sekmai village in Imphal Valley comes Sekmai Yu, a potent rice whisky known for its strength and aroma. It remains central to Manipuri tradition, symbolizing community pride.

6. Handia & Variants

Across tribal belts in Jharkhand, Odisha, Chhattisgarh, and parts of the Northeast, Handia and similar rice beers thrive. Made using herbal starter cakes, these drinks exemplify how diverse communities adapted rice fermentation into their cultural rhythm.

Why Local Spirits Matter

India’s local liquors are not mere curiosities. They hold cultural, social, and economic significance:

• Festive & Ritual Importance – From weddings to harvest festivals, these drinks mark life’s milestones.
  
  
• Community Bonding – Sharing toddy or apong is about connection, storytelling, and togetherness.
  
  
• Geographical Identity – GI tags for Feni and Judima show how these drinks embody local pride and heritage.

Challenges Facing Local Spirits

Despite their rich history, India’s indigenous liquors face modern pressures:

• Standardization & Safety – Many homemade brews lack consistency and may pose health risks.
  
  
• Legal Restrictions – Some liquors, like arrack, exist in a gray zone between tradition and prohibition.
  
  
• Changing Preferences – Younger urban consumers often prefer mainstream branded alcohol over rustic local brews.

Signs of Revival

Encouragingly, the tide is turning:

• GI recognition (for Feni, Judima) strengthens legitimacy.
  
  
• Tourism is creating “heritage drinking experiences” where travelers can taste these unique spirits.
  
  
• Craft distillers are reimagining traditional recipes for modern markets, blending authenticity with innovation.
  
  

The Future of Indian Local Liquors

With India’s booming craft beverage movement, local spirits are poised for a renaissance. Imagine:

• A Feni-based kokum spritz at a trendy Mumbai bar.
  
  
• Toddy-inspired cocktails at a Kerala resort.
  
  
• Judima-infused craft beers that carry tribal heritage to urban shelves.
  

This isn’t just possible—it’s already happening. Chefs, bartenders, and entrepreneurs are rediscovering India’s indigenous spirits, giving them the global stage they deserve.

Final Thoughts

Tasting local spirits from Goa, Kerala, and the Northeast of India goes beyond drinking. It's about culture, geography, and narrative. They offer glimpses into community life: the cashew orchards of Goa, the toddy taps of Kerala, and the rice paddy fields of the Northeast. 

The next time you travel, forget the familiar branding of the bottle. Ask for Feni, Toddy, or Apong. You may find that in one sip, you don't simply drink, you partake in centuries of heritage.

Also Read: What Makes a Spirit a Liqueur? Sugar, Herbs, and Production Standards Explained